Textile waste - a problem

The textile industry is one of the oldest and the largest industries in the world. With the increase of world’s population, there is an increase in the demand for textile products. In 1950, the FAO reported that 3.7 kg of textile fiber per person has been consumed and the figure continuously increased to 11.1 kg of fiber per person in 2007. The great demand will, of course, lead to a high volume of textile fiber production. Around 70.6 million tons of textile fibers were produced worldwide in 2007 and the production trend was gradually increased to 90.8 million tons of textile fibers in 2014. The global textile and apparel market is predicted to grow at a compound average growth rate of 3.7% per year and to exceed 100 million tons by 2025.

Textile industry enlargement affects the environment, as around 10–20% of all textile products are considered to be wasted. The annual textile waste in China, the United Kingdom, and the United States is estimated to be 26.0, 1.0, and 12.4 million tons, respectively. Fast fashion leaves a pollution footprint on which each step in textile life cycle carries potential environmental problems and hazards. Furthermore, textile production processes require a high volume of water, energy, and chemicals. The growth of the textile industry has led to a subsequent increase of textile waste. Textile waste can be categorized into two main groups, i.e., pre-consumer textile waste, which is the waste generated during the textile production processes; and post-consumer textile waste, which is the waste created during consumer use and disposal.

Recycling of waste in the country is still in its infancy. Starting from next year, it may no longer be necessary to take rags to landfills, instead it will be burned for energy. The Finnish Environment Institute-Syke, however, said the goals have been set high. A regulation which came into force at the beginning of the year limits the disposal of organic waste to the landfills. In practice, the textile waste is burned to energy in waste plants. Consumers, however, continue to put torn pieces of cloth in the company of mixed household waste. Syke, however, believes, it is best to recycle textiles. “The environmental benefits of recycling would be huge,” senior researcher Helena Dahlbo pointed out. According to Dahlbo, recycling for environment is as good a solution as re-use of clothes in good condition in the second-hand stores. On the other hand, only 1.5 percent of rags is recycled. In all, 55 million kilos of textile end up in the waste annually.

“Textile waste is not worth collecting, because it does not have benefits. The whole recycling chain should be developed at the same time since there are several bottlenecks,” Dahlbo said. It involves collection, sorting, processing and manufacturing of new products, and consumer demand is generated from creating new products, Dahlbo added. Syke has recommended a number of ways to promote recycling. Waste separation of textile materials should be made easier for the consumers and producers and importers should be committed to receive textiles. On the other hand, criteria requiring the use of recycled materials should be implemented in public procurement.

 

The terminology of textile recycling may appear complicated to the consumer. What, for example, is the difference between reusing and recycling? Senior coordinator Hanna Salmenperä from the Finnish environmental institute SYKE answered some questions on the topic. Her work mainly consists of research on waste, recycling, and waste prevention. Ms. Salmenperä has recently made a report on juridical and administrational interpretations and procedures concerning end-of-life textiles and says she was rather surprised about how challenging the work was, as there are no easy answers in the topic. The terminology around end-of-life textiles is still constantly under development and even entirely new interpretations will be required. New questions are likely to come up that the current instructions may not be able to answer. Salmenperä defines end-of-life textiles as something unnecessary for its owner, including both reusable textiles and cast-off waste textiles.

During the Telaketju project it has been determined that reusing textiles or clothes means using them in either their original intended use or as parts for new products. According to this definition using clothes or fabric to manufacture new products, for example making tote bags of old curtains, is considered material reuse. When being reused as such, the product or material has no waste status, but there is no unambiguous answer to what kind of textiles are still suitable for reuse. The best-known actors in collecting textiles for reuse are different charity organizations that have already established good collection networks. In addition to them there also are some private actors who usually collect a specific material fraction for reuse. More significant than finding solutions to recycling textiles, however, is to advance their reuse, as according to research most of end-of-life textiles are in reusable shape.

Recycling the material on the other hand means mechanically or chemically treating it before using it to manufacture a new product. Mechanical recycling is still quite sparsely in use in Finland and there are several research projects regarding chemical recycling, aimed for commercial use. Now the majority of our tattered textiles ends up in mixed waste, from where they end up in energy recovery. According to a research made by SYKE 58 000 tonnes of textiles ended up in waste management in Finland in 2012, equalling 10,8 kg per person; at the same time Finland exported 8 million kilograms of textiles intended for reuse. The questions regarding definitions and waste status are more important than they may seem at first, as they are closely linked to how legislation is applied and what kind of procedures are required.

Collecting textile waste is not yet obliged in legislation, but the waste directive is being renewed to include obligatory collection for textiles separately in 2025. According to Hanna Salmenperä it is not yet clear, though, if one collection station per municipality will be enough or will establishing a wide collection network be required. Salmenperä advises consumers eager to recycle their textiles but not having the facilities for doing so, to be patient and follow the public conversation, as a change is on its way. She is confident that the consumers are ready to sort and separate their end-of-life textiles as soon as the technical solutions to recycling them become available. More significant than finding solutions to recycling textiles, however, is to advance their reuse, as according to research most of end-of-life textiles are in reusable shape.

The most important thing to do as a consumer is to acquire durable clothes, have them repaired instead of disposing of them and consume within reason. Reusable textiles can also be given to one’s neighbours or friends, so reuse does not always require an organized collection service. End-of-life textiles in a nutshell End-of-life textile means both reusable textiles and textile waste, ie. cast-off textiles. Reuse means using the product or a part of it in its original intended use. Also, using textile products such as fabrics as a material for new products is defined as reuse. Textile recycling is mechanical, chemical or thermal treatment to use the material as a raw material for new products. Reusable textile is whole, clean and usable. Mechanical recycling means breaking the fabric into fibre and using the fibre for manufacturing recycled fibre products such as filling material and soakage products or thread to use in making new textile products. Chemical recycling means recycling the raw material of the fibres into a raw material for new fibres by dissolution or via other chemical processes. Thermal recycling means recycling mainly synthetic fibres back to fibres using melt spinning. 

 

 

Textile waste

Telaketju

Telaketju is a cooperation network that forwards textile recycling. The project includes developing the collection, sorting out and refining processes of end-of-life textiles. Moreover, it enables the development of business models related to discussed circular economy. In Telaketju, a national ecosystem of knowledge is being advanced, building a platform for the creation of new and strong industry with multidisciplinary collaboration. Telaketju is a continuation of Textile 2.0 pilot project in 2016 which started the end-of-life textile collection and sorting out in the Southwest Finland. The project was held by Turku University of Applied Sciences and Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto, regional waste management company. The pilot project was an indicator for noticing that textile recycling regarding the whole life cycle is an interest of many in Finland. The ”Telaketju” name is short from textile recycling, sorting and utilizing network, in Finnish. The Telaketju project has received support form the Ministry of Environment and Tekes. The Ministry of Environment has agreed on giving support for the pilot project of textile collection and sorting. Some of the companies involved applied for Tekes funding in terms of process, business and product development with the help of Telaketju project. Alongside the own projects of the companies, Tekes also funds a public project that researchs the cycle of end-of-life textiles. The idea is to fund several parts of Telaketju both nationally and locally with many parallel projects.

 

Telaketju is being coordinated by Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto Oy and VTT. Telaketju is in whole a complex project that requires many operators. These are for example, end-of-life textile collectors, sorters, operators developing primary processing and automized sorting, companies utilizing final products, work centers arranging social work, waste centers, charity organizations and municipalities. The variety of collaboration is in such magnitude that it has been acknowledged in international circular economy networks as well.

 

Telaketju 2 final report is published 27.08.2021 The final report of Telaketju 2 project summarises results obtained within the project structures under the following themes: business models, consumers, sustainable materials, product design, recycling, and product information. The report also reviews the outcome and success of the project, as we compare targets with the obtained results, and feedback collected from participating companies and other organizations. Furthermore, the Telaketju road-map has been included as part of the report focusing on the future.

The final report can be read here: https://cris.vtt.fi/en/publications/telaketju-business-from-circularity-of-textiles

 

Southwest Finland Waste Management (LSJH) is launching a mechanical recycling facility for Topinoja

Topinpuisto is a circular economy network and hub in Turku launched in 2016. Network of 15 organizations implement efficient public-private cooperation in circular economy and waste management.Topinpuisto has expertise in e.g. textile recycling, municipal and company waste management, biogas production, recycling of industrial metals, circular economy education and collaborative R&D projects. Services are developed through R&D projects in cooperation with companies, universities and authorities of Turku region, offering possibilities for university students to work with circular economy throughout their studies. Topinpuisto circular economy hubs’ good infrastructure and competitive location alongside the E18 motorway offers connections to docks, airport and other major cities in southern Finland. Topinpuisto has a Visitor Centre which offers a pedagogic approach to circular economy and possibilities to host delegation visits.

 

 

Trash-2-Cash

Trash-2-Cash was an EU funded research project which aimed to create new regenerated fibres from pre-consumer and post-consumer waste. It was also pioneering a whole new way of developing materials. One resource that’s becoming more abundant is waste. The idea of recycling textile waste has been popular for decades, but current mechanical methods give poor quality fabrics suitable only for industrial applications like insulation, and upcycling of pre-consumer textile waste into products is impossible to scale. Trash-2-Cash (T2C) proposed a new model where paper and textile waste is recycled chemically - resulting in fabrics that are the same quality as new materials, to make products that are industrially replicable and infinitely recyclable. Who was part of this challenge? Designers, design researchers, scientists, raw material suppliers and product manufacturers from across Europe made up a cross-disciplinary consortium representing the whole product supply chain. Eighteen partners, from ten countries, were working together to address the challenge of designing high quality industrial materials from waste This was a three-and-a-half-year project. The first phase was cross-sectoral, with the whole group designing a wish list of fibre properties, then describing a vision for how the novel recycled materials would be used. In the second phase, material scientists produced samples of the new recycled cellulosic and polyester materials, and designers and industry produced product prototypes, based on consumer insights. In the final phase, academics reflected on the new collaborative Design Driven Material Innovation (DDMI) methodology, drawing upon their observations from the entire project. What were the outcomes? T2C has achieved a high quality materials and product prototypes from waste, offering companies in various industries (fashion, interiors, automotive and other luxury goods) new eco-fibre options. We also hope to influence how all novel materials are developed in the future through DDMI methodology. This new way of working will outline how science, design and industry can input into the process from beginning to end. https://www.trash2cashproject.eu/ Trash-2-Cash is a collaboration of the following organisations: 

- Aalto University School of Arts, Design and Architecture, Finland

- IK4-CIDETEC Technology Centre, IK4 Research Alliance, Spain

- The Copenhagen Business School (CBS), Denmark

- Grado Zero Innovation (GZI), Italy - MAIER, Spain

- Material ConneXion Italia Srl, Italy

- Reima, Finland

- RISE Research Institutes of Sweden

- Celanese, Italy - SOEX, Germany

- SÖKTAŞ, Turkey - Swerea, IVF, Sweden (from October 1st2018, RISE,Sweden)

- TEKO, Sweden - Tekstina, Slovenia

- University of the Arts London (UAL), United Kingdom

- VanBerlo,The Netherlands

- VTT, Finland

 

Solutions for recirculating textiles are needed Lindström generated 1.2 million kilos in textile waste in 2015. The recovery rate of textile waste totalled 71 per cent; 100 per cent in Finland, and approximately 34 per cent in European and Asian subsidiaries. The company aims to increase the reuse rate to 90 per cent by 2020. The vision target set five years ago for 2016 still remains valid. Finding ways to reuse textile waste especially in the European and Asian subsidiaries has proved challenging. As these regions’ share of turnover increases, the textile waste recovery rate will decrease, unless the company manages to find an adequate amount of partners that treat textile waste. The majority of Lindström’s disposed textiles are made from a cotton/polyester blend, and include many manually removable parts, such as zips and snap fasteners. The current textile recovery solutions favour cotton and at least materials without metal elements. Lindström has managed to find its own solutions and partners for the reuse of textiles, and negotiations on new initiatives are constantly underway. However, the amount of textiles recycled through existing solutions is so insignificant that they have no clear impact on the company’s recovery rate of textile waste. The company considers chemical dissolving to be the most significant future method, whereby cotton and polyester could be recovered separately through a chemical process and turned into new raw material. Lindström closely monitors the Design World of Cellulose project of VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, Aalto University and Tampere University of Technology, which involves developing new recycled textile fibre by means of dissolving. The methods are developed for the treatment of large volumes of waste. Also the Finnish Environment Institution (SYKE) has raised chemical recycling as one solution for reusing textiles. According to the Institution, both reuse and recycle are better option for the environment than making use of textiles as energy, if they are able to reduce textile production from virgin materials. www.syke.fi We consider chemical dissolving to be the most significant future method circulating textile raw material.

 

The raw material is collected from two main sources – cutting clips from CMT factories and yarn waste from spinning/weaving mills. We then sort it by quality and color. The color of the waste, defines the color of the final product. No dyeing is needed.
Each quality/colour is mechanically opened back into fibres. We focus on keeping the fibre length as long as possible, for the finest yarn quality.

The mechanically opened cotton waste can be mixed with chemically recycled polyester or viscose fibres to reach a specific functionality depending on the final use of the fabric.
The mixed recycled fibres are spun into yarns. This part of the process is the same as with spinning fresh fibres.
The yarns are knitted or woven depending on the final use of the fabric.

Also depending on the final use of the fabric, there are multiple ways of finishing the process, such as compacting, brushing and washing.
This process includes cutting, making and trimming of the final product.
The finished product ready to ship.

 

Rester Oy

The new Finnish circular economy company Rester Oy is building a circular economy plant in Paimio. The plant will be completed in early 2021.
The plant under construction in Rester mechanically processes the disposal textiles and produces new raw material from them. This material can be utilized in various industries as a raw material.
The plant is capable of processing approximately 6,000 tons of waste textiles annually. The plant is a major project on a Nordic scale. The plant enables a closed-loop service model for corporate disposal textiles and industrial by-products. This means, for example, that workwear can be provided as a complete service, which also includes the recycling of materials when the workwear is used up.
Other possible material flows come from, for example, laundries, hotels and hospitals.

“We are building a completely new type of textile circular facility, where disposal textiles can be utilized as a new raw material. Our intention is to create a secondary market for hitherto commercially untapped waste, ”says Outi Luukko, CEO of Touchpoint, a workwear company, and Chairman of the Board of Rester.
"In our opinion, the fact that we can recycle the workwear we produce in Finland as a new raw material is a big leap in the right direction," Luukko continues.

The project is based on a number of pioneers in the textile industry, including Touchpoint and Pure Waste Textiles, which makes textiles from cutting waste. At the same time, the facility also provides household removable textiles In connection with the plant to be built in Paimio, the Southwest Finland Waste Management (LSJH) pilot phase processing plant will also be added, where waste textiles collected from households will also be treated as industrial raw materials.

The goal is for all municipally owned waste facilities to participate in the pilot plant project in stages. Approximately 350 million kilos of waste disposal textile is generated in the Nordic region every year. Finland's share of this is about 100 million kilos, and currently about 80% of it ends up being incinerated. This amount includes both consumer and business disposal textiles.

Paimio Disposable Textiles Circular Economy Celebrates Opening on November 2, 2021 in a Happy Mood 4/4/2021
The first plant in Northern Europe to open up large-scale recycled textiles into recycled fibers is now ready to start operations. Partnerships are hot for both the waste textile to be received and the recycled fiber to be sold out.
At the plant in Southwest Finland, Rester Oy receives the companies' disposal textiles and production by-products and mechanically opens them back into fiber. The material received is of high quality, so it can be used to make, for example, yarn, various nonwoven materials, insulation, acoustic panels and filter fabrics, as well as composites.
Lounais-Suomen jäätehuolto Oy also operates under the same roof, which takes care of the processing of household waste textiles into recycled fibers. The plant is based on cooperation that enables the efficient utilization of waste disposal textiles for both companies and households. New uses for the fiber are constantly being sought. Rester's goal is to build an internationally significant solution model for the recycling of corporate textiles.
- With environmental issues and tightening regulation in the EU, the interest of producers in switching widely to recycled materials has increased. Through active cooperation with partners, we can immediately influence the degree of circular economy of materials. It is rewarding to be involved in reusing material previously classified as waste as a quality raw material. This has been prepared for years, and it's great to get the work started, Rester's CEO Outi Luukko says.
If you have any questions or would like to discuss cooperation in the field of removable textiles, please contact:
Rester Oy Customer and development manager Henna Knuutila +358 50 547 7266 henna@rester.fi

Lindström invests in the circular economy company Rester and becomes the company's second largest owner
Lindström Group has participated in the financing round of Rester Oy, which offers textile recycling solutions, held in March 2022 and will become a significant minority shareholder in the company. With the participation, Lindström's and Rester's co-operation to process Lindström's Finnish and Baltic waste textiles for industrial reuse, which began in early 2021, will deepen and expand internationally. Lindström's strategic goal is to recycle 100% of its scrap textile globally by 2025.
In 2021, the Lindström Group's turnover was EUR 432.5 million. www.lindstromgroup.com

Marimekko recycles scrap textiles from its own production - cooperation with Rester supports the company's goal of a value chain in a circular economy
Marimekko and Rester Oy, which recycles waste textiles, have started co-operation related to the recycling of waste textiles. Since the beginning of 2022, new textile fiber has been produced from Marimekko's own production, ie waste textile from the Helsinki textile printing house and sewing shop, at the Rester recycling plant in Paimio. Cooperation with Rester supports Marimekko's goal of a value chain in accordance with the circular economy. The company is committed to continually advancing technology, materials, and business model innovations with partners to advance the entire industry.
More information:
Asta Halme
Marimekko Communications
Tel. 09 7587 233
asta.halme@marimekko.com

Love at a Glance: OnceMore® by Södra and Rester Start Co-operation to Promote Textile Circulation in the Nordic Countries
OnceMore® by Södra has set a goal of handling 25,000 tonnes of waste textiles annually by 2025. Cooperation is an important step towards achieving this goal.
Södra and Rester are launching a collaboration that will extend beyond the two companies. As part of the synergy co-operation, a new hub will be set up in Sweden to collect various recyclable waste textiles from companies. Textiles are processed and processed into the most suitable raw materials for the textile industry, which helps to close the cycle of corporate textiles. A new hub will be established in the Gothenburg area. Hubi acts as Rester's efficient collection point for all new and existing customers in Sweden, Norway and Denmark. Closing the textile cycle is also called for in the proposed EU textile strategy, which will have a significant impact on material flows in the coming years.
“Rester is an easy partner in sourcing raw materials in many different ways. We have common goals and can learn from each other. Our partnership also offers new opportunities to reduce textile waste together and promote textile recycling. Even at the first meeting, it was clear that this was ‘love at first sight’! Social ties and the sharing of know-how are also absolutely necessary for full and fruitful cooperation, ”says Åsa Alvhage, who represents the OnceMore by Södra process.
More information:
Åsa Alvhage
Procurement of raw materials
Mobile phone +46730780061
asa.alvhage@sodra.com

 

Mechanical recycling

Finns used jackets and trousers end up in oil-filling mats
Textile industry surplus bottles and home-made jackets and trousers may end up as efficient oil-absorbing mats. A small company in southern Häme has become the market leader in smelling niches. Everything goes what is done.

Dafecor Oy is a Finnish company that produces new products from the textile industry surplus. Various types of textile fibers are used to process products used in industrial maintenance to prevent or repair environmental damage, in construction and in gardens to improve production. Dafecor Oy is able to utilize a wide variety of raw materials. Some of the products are also suitable for upholstery materials in the furniture industry. By using Dafecor Oy's products, you reduce the load on your landfills. Dafecor Oy's products have been tested and OilStop environmental products have been found to be the most efficient in the market with absorption properties.

OilStop Environmental Products
OilStop environmental products are designed for demanding environmental maintenance and prevention. The OilStop product family includes three different material compositions that have been developed with the purpose in mind. OilStop Super binds heavy fuel oils. OilStop Medium also binds greasy fluids, but it also absorbs other lighter liquids. OilStop Lite is designed for absorbing light liquids and this product is used, for example, in for the absorption of dangerous substances such as various chemicals.

Other environmental products
Dafecor manufactures environmental products for the changing needs of industry and maintenance. The key objective of environmental products is to increase the safety of workers, institutions and the environment in a preventive way or to enhance the process of cleaning up environmental damage that has already occurred. Your choices will affect your company's carbon footprint. By choosing an efficient recycled textile product, you also reduce the load on landfills.

industrial Wipes
Dafecor Oy has a wide range of towels and cloths for industrial maintenance.

Production process

The preconsumer textile waste component is related to the textile raw material, since the raw material to produce textiles can be classified into three main groups, which are cellulose fiber, protein fiber, and synthetic fiber. Cellulose fiber is made from plant materials such as cotton, flex, hemp, and ramie. Protein fiber is produced from animals including wool, angora, cashmere, and silk, and synthetic fiber is made from petroleum-based chemicals such as polyester, nylon, spandex, acrylic, and polypropylene. Each type of raw material needs a specific kind of dyeing chemicals and materials in the production process, and therefore its by-product would create another stream of textile waste.

Cotton is one of the main raw materials among all fiber types owing to its large share in the textile market. Around 25 million tons of cotton was produced annually. The post-consumer textile waste is mainly disposed clothes, which contain a mixture of materials. Since the post-consumer textile waste is not easily decomposed], it accumulates and occupies space, and may lead to infectious diseases, attract pests, and spread odors in the environment. Therefore, these can cause environmental problems without proper waste management.

The post-consumer textile waste is a mixture of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, and other substances, such as metallic zippers, acrylic buttons, wood buttons, shell buttons, and metallic snap fasteners, which make it hard to degrade.

Textile waste spoiling is cause of: mould, getting wet, unpleasend smell, other dirt, insects, other pests (exemplary mice).

The conventional method for treatment of solid waste from textile industry is landfill or incineration. However, this treatment is not favor, in some area of Europe (Germany, Austria, Sweden, Denmark, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Switzerland) and North America since the releasing leachate from textile landfill may contaminate the surface water and underground water source may cause adversely affect human health. Furthermore, the methane formation during decomposing of organic substance can cause greenhouse gas emissions.

The Finnish Environment Institute-Syke, however, said the goals have been set high. A regulation which came into force at the beginning of the year 2015 limits the disposal of organic waste to the landfills. In practice, the textile waste is burned to energy in waste plants. Consumers, however, continue to put torn pieces of cloth in the company of mixed household waste. Syke, however, believes, it is best to recycle textiles. “The environmental benefits of recycling would be huge,” senior researcher Helena Dahlbo pointed out. According to Dahlbo, recycling for environment is as good a solution as re-use of clothes in good condition in the second-hand stores. On the other hand, only 1.5 percent of rags is recycled. In all, 55 million kilos of textile end up in the waste annually.

End-of-life textiles in a nutshell
End-of-life textile means both reusable textiles and textile waste, ie. cast-off textiles.

Reuse means using the product or a part of it in its original intended use.
Also using textile products such as fabrics as a material for new products is defined as reuse.
Textile recycling is mechanical, chemical or thermal treatment to use the material as a raw material for new products.
Reusable textile is whole, clean and usable.
Mechanical recycling means breaking the fabric into fibre and using the fibre for manufacturing recycled fibre products such as filling material and soakage products or thread to use in making new textile products.
Chemical recycling means recycling the raw material of the fibres into a raw material for new fibres by dissolution or via other chemical processes.
Thermal recycling means recycling mainly synthetic fibres back to fibres using melt spinning.

Lindström generated 1.2 million kilos in textile waste in 2015. The recovery rate of textile waste totalled 71 per cent; 100 per cent in Finland, and approximately 34 per cent in European and Asian subsidiaries. The company aims to increase the reuse rate to 90 per cent by 2020.

The majority of Lindström’s disposed textiles are made from a cotton/polyester blend, and include many manually removable parts, such as zips and snap fasteners. The current textile recovery solutions favour cotton and at least materials without metal elements.Lindström closely monitors the Design World of Cellulose project of VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland, Aalto University and Tampere University of Technology, which involves developing new recycled textile fibre by means of dissolving. The methods are developed for the treatment of large volumes of waste.

Pure Waste
Pure Waste is a finnish company. All their products ase made of textile waste, leftover from the the clothing manufactorin process. First the waste is sorted by colour the it is refibred and spin into mew yarn. This allowes to produce fabrics without dyeing without use of fresh water. Then it will be turn into products that saves huge amount of fresh water. It takes over 11000 litres fresh water to grow 1Kg of cotton.

As the most abundant form of terrestrial biomass, cellulose can be converted into monomers, derivatives, regenerated materials, and other functional materials. However, cellulose is insoluble in common solvents due to its fibril structure and intramolecular and intermolecular hydrogen bonds. As a result, the multistep viscose process has long been favored in the regenerated cellulose (RC) industry, although this process generates several environmentally hazardous byproducts including CS2, H2S and heavy metals.

South-Western Finlands Waste Disposal company plans to establish a waste textile processin plant, which should be able to process all textile waste of the whole Finland. Nearly all Finlands municipal waste disposal plants are icluded this project. In year 2025 inside EU new directive will put into operation. This prevents to textile waste tranporting to landfill.

BlockTexx

BlockTexx is an ausralian clean technology company that recovers polyester and cellulose from textiles and clothing.

Waste or potential raw material?

International fashion brands are complicit in Asia’s textile waste problem. Despite a USD$2 trillion dollar market size, the fashion industry's investment in R&D is less than 1% of sales. Unfortunately, the industry focus has been driven by cost reduction and boom lines that ignore innovation and snub investment potential.

Clean technology company BlockTexx is a Plug & Play - Alliance to end plastic waste alumni. BlockTexx has developed the S.O.F.T. (separation of fibre technology) process that combines chemical recovery technology and advanced manufacturing to produce high quality recycled materials of rPET pellets and cellulose powder from textile waste.

The patent pending S.O.F.T. process has been developed and optimised over the past two years.  The chemical separation process: it unlocks cotton from polyester, recovering 100% of the polyester and leaves a by-product that is claimed to be entirely recyclable water, describes Graham Ross, the co-founder of BlockTexx.
“The original plan was to build a 10,000 tonne facility – which is not very big compared to the stage that our competitors are at – [but now] we’re launching a 3,800 tonne plant, with plans to scale up to 10,000 within a short period of time.

The pilot plant

Chemical recycling

Chemical recycling In the last 30 years, several green cellulose solvent systems, including N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO), ionic liquids and NaOH/urea aqueous solution as well as some uncommon methods, have been reported, and some progressive results have been achieved. NMMO hydrate has been identified as the most effectual solvent and has led to a new class of man-made cellulosic fibers with the generic name Lyocell. However, the Lyocell technology, which holds some disadvantages, would benefit from further enhancement of improved consumer properties and reduced power consumption from solvent recycling and washing water. It seems to be the carbamate process to be the most potential one. This process is advantageous in retaining the use of the viscose spinning technology while avoiding the use of hazardous sulfur-containing compounds for derivatization. Cellulose materials are first alkalized and preripened with the occurrence of partial chain degradation. Cellulose carbamate (CCA) is then obtained from the alkali cellulose in xylene (as a transfer medium) and result in being dissolved in NaOH solution. The prepared spinning dope is filtered and degassed before wet spinning in an acidic precipitation bath, followed by a salt-containing alkaline decomposition bath for hydrolysis of the carbamate groups at elevated temperature.

. The possible pathways to recycling textiles using chemical methods

Two alternative ways to recycle cotton waste

Pure Waste

Pure Waste turned the fibres into yarn with the blend of mechanically recycled cotton fibres and made a knitted fabric. Fashion designer Anna Ruohonen designed an evening dress, which MEP Sirpa Pietikäinen wore at Finland's Centenary Independence Day Reception at the Presidential Palace. According to Ruohonen, the recycled material was very pleasant to the touch, had good machining properties and hanged well.

This dress was manufactured during Relooping Fashion Iniative. The Circulars 2016 Highly Commended The Relooping Fashion Initative received a Highly Commended status in the Awards Program's public sector category in The Circulars 2016 Awards Ceremony held at the WEF Meeting in Davos on 19 January. The Circulars is the world's premier circular economy award programme, whose judging panel includes the circular economy pioneers such as Ellen MacArthur and William McDonough, as well as representatives from global business and university sector.

It was contued in TeKiDe project in VTT with cooperation with Aalto University. This project won prize  2016 Regiostar competion. The REGIOSTARS are Europe’s award for the most innovative, regional projects.

http://reloopingfashion.org/

Infinited Fiber Company

In a nutcell

Raw material
The cellulose carbamate method developed by Infinited Fiber can be used to make completely new textile fiber from textile waste. Other cellulosic waste streams, such as recycled board and paper, as well as agricultural waste streams such as wheat straw, can also be used as raw material for Infinna ™ fiber.

Method
Fiber production begins with the initial processing of the raw material, which is tailored to the raw material used. For textile waste, the process begins with sorting and mechanical tearing, after which the cellulosic fiber is separated from other fibers such as polyester. The carbamation step in which the cellulose reacts with the urea is the core of the process, and from this step on, the process is the same regardless of the raw material. The cellulose carbamate powder resulting from the process is dissolved into a liquid, and the liquid is spun into a cellulose carbamate fiber. After use, textiles made from fiber can be recycled in the same process along with other textile waste. As such, the fiber is biodegradable. The main environmental impacts of the manufacturing process are related to maintaining the biomass cycle and reducing the global textile waste problem. Compared to cotton, viscose and polyester, Infinna's manufacturing is less harmful to the environment, especially in terms of carbon dioxide emissions. Compared to cotton, water consumption is significantly lower. According to the company, producing the amount of fiber needed for a single T-shirt requires about 14 liters of water, while producing the same amount of cotton fiber requires more than 600 liters of water.

Material Properties
Infinna fiber has a natural, cotton-like feel and has excellent colorability. Infinna fiber can be used like any other textile fiber in the manufacture of yarn and fabric and has already been used to make a wide variety of textiles and garments.

Objectives and Collaboration
Infinited Fiber Company’s Infinna fiber is on the verge of commercialization. Piloting of fiber production began in Espoo in 2018, and a factory was opened in Valkeakoski in early 2020. In total, the pilot operations have an annual capacity of 150 tonnes. Although the technology development work is in Finland, it has global market potential. The method can be applied to existing pulp and viscose fiber mills. The goal of the company's business is to license technology. According to Infinited Fiber Company, the first licensed commercial-scale plant is planned for the near future. Infinited Fiber has gathered around it a well-known group of partners from around the world. The customer base includes e.g., H&M Group, BESTSELLER, PVH Corp. (including Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger), Wrangler and Patagonia, and the Finnish nonwoven fabric manufacturer Suominen. H&M Group's Weekday chain introduced the first commercial product, jeans made of Infinna fiber and organic cotton, in early 2021. Infinited Fiber is leading a three-year New Cotton Project that aims to model the textile-to-textile cycle for the entire value chain and to promote the circular economy in the textile industry. The textile waste collected in the EU-funded project is used to make new textile products using Infinited Fiber technology, and the finished products are sold by adidas and the H&M Group.

April 16, 2019 Infinited Fiber Company signs new partnerships with H&M Group, Fortum and Virala
Infinited Fiber Company Ltd. (IFC) has raised 3.7 million euros in funding from investors, including H&M Group, Fortum and Virala. IFC is currently running a 50-ton pilot plant in Finland and plans to increase the annual capacity of the next generation sustainable textile fiber production up to 500 tons in order to meet the growing demand from the market.

“I’m very proud that we have created a technology that enables textile waste to be used over and over again by producing a strong, sustainable fiber without compromising quality and comfort. We are delighted to welcome the global fashion retailer H&M Group, as well as Fortum, a leading clean energy and resource efficiency company, and Finnish investment company Virala, to be our new partners in closing the loop for textiles,” says Petri Alava, CEO of IFC.

“We’re excited about the partnership with Infinited Fiber Company. Their innovation aligns perfectly with the H&M group’s sustainability goals and our vision to become fully circular. Infinited Fiber has proven significant potential to accelerate the journey from a linear to a circular fashion industry. We look forward to being part of developing and scaling this technology in the coming years”, says Erik Karlsson, Investment Manager for Sustainable Fashion at H&M group’s investment arm CO:LAB.

“Fortum is studying possibilities to grow business that is based on the more efficient use of biomass. We believe strongly in biorefining, new technologies and their role in a more sustainably produced textile fibre”, says Heli Antila, head of Fortum’sbusiness focusing on bio-based solutions.

In addition to cotton rich textile waste, the Infinited Fiber manufacturing process can use most material containing cellulose, e.g. recycled paper, cardboard and agricultural waste such as straw – nevertheless the reborn fiber will be the same. Properties of the Infinited Fiber include a natural soft look and feel, consistent proven quality, 30-40% better color uptake than competing fibers, it’s antibacterial and bio-degradable and has excellent moisture absorption qualities. In addition, it has a total cost competitiveness in the textile production supply chain.

“A problem in the textile industry is the growing demand for cotton that simply isn’t available. We have proven that for example in denim applications, the commercial quality requirements can be reached with our Infinited Fiber. The global denim industry is pushing us to bring our solutions to the market. Our reborn Infinited Fiber is re-usable forever, carbon neutral and applicable like natural cotton without any microplastics harming the environment”, says Alava.

The business model of IFC is to license the Infinited Fiber technology for global fiber producers in textile and non-woven industries. The end-use applications include fashion, disposable personal care products (e.g. wipes, diapers, pads) and technical products (e.g. automotive filters, dairy, construction applications). The production process is protected by several patents in key market areas.

The sale of the first licensed commercial plant with a capacity of 25,000 tons is scheduled for 2020-2021. The pilot plant started up production in March 2018 and is selling solutions to several leading global brands.

2020 Infinited Fiber Company registred a new brand named as Infinna™
They adverdise that Infinna™ is
1. Born from waste and fully circular Textile-to-textile fiber regeneration is now a reality.      Clothes and textiles made with our regenerated fibers can be recycled with other textile waste and reborn again as Infinna™.
2. An alternative to virgin cotton A premium textile fiber that’s soft and versatile like            cotton and eliminates the need to grow new materials by capturing the value of what’s already been produced.
3. Only natural ingredients True, you can’t grow it. But Infinna™ is as natural as                      manmade can be. It’s created out of cellulose, which is a building block of all plants. Anything else that’s in the feedstock is cleaned out in the process.
4. Completely biodegradable, no microplastics Infinna™ is completely biodegradable and contains no microplastics to clog our oceans and seas.
5. Soft and natural to the touch Whether you use it to make a t-shirt, a hoodie, denim or      bedsheets, Infinna™ feels soft to the touch and lovely against the skin.
6. Saves water Producing the fibers to make one t-shirt with Infinna™ takes a fraction  of the water needed to produce a similar amount of cotton. Multiply by the 2 billion T-shirts made annually, and you see the scope of what’s possible.

INDEX™20, Geneva
A shared commitment to bringing circular materials and sustainable practices to the nonwovens industry, and a desire to differentiate positively in the single-use items market, brought together the innovative textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company and Suominen, the global market leader in nonwovens for wipes, to create a nonwoven sheet made 100% from regenerated textile waste.
The sheet is made with Infinited Fiber Company’s regenerated fiber Infinna™, which is biodegradable, plastic-free fiber and made from discarded cotton-rich textiles, making it a resource-efficient alternative to the conventional materials used in single-use nonwovens, such as polyester and viscose. The nonwoven was developed through collaborative R&D efforts by Suominen and Infinited Fiber Company, whose shared values include sustainability and circularity.
“Suominen aims to differentiate with innovation and sustainability. We see high potential in using recycled materials and are very excited to be able to support and participate in the development of Infinna™ for nonwoven applications,” says Suominen’s President and CEO Petri Helsky.
Infinited Fiber Company co-founder and CEO Petri Alava says: “Introducing materials that are made from resources that already exist – like discarded textiles – is a way of bringing circularity to the single-use nonwovens market. The material we have created with Suominen demonstrates a more sustainable future for nonwovens, and we look forward to continuing our close collaboration and co-development work in the years ahead.”
The nonwoven sheet co-created by the two Finnish companies speaks to the goals of biodegradability and plastic-free. These are now key focus points for the nonwovens industry, driven by the European Commission’s single-use plastics directive and increasing pressure from retailers and consumers looking for more sustainable, circular options in single-use items.

 

Regenerated CCA fibers from Infinited Fibre Company pilot plant

Infinited Fibre Company pilot plant

Weekday has launched a small batch of Rowe jeans made of Infinna fibres.

November 10th 2021 – release published by GANNI

Marking another step on their journey to become more responsible, contemporary womenswear brand GANNI signs an agreement with Finnish circular fashion technology group Infinited Fiber Company to use their breakthrough textile waste regeneration technology in future garment production.

Infinna™ is a unique, patented, virgin-quality regenerated textile fiber with the soft and natural look and feel of cotton. Created using a tested and proven technology, the premium-quality fibers are made from cotton-rich textile waste that would otherwise end up in landfills or be burned. Locally sourced in Finland by Infinited Fiber, the old textiles are broken down at the molecular level and reborn as new fibers.

As it’s made of cellulose, a building block of all plants, Infinna contains no microplastics to clog our seas, and instead keeps biomass in circulation, sparing the land and making space for food crops and wilderness instead. The garments produced with Infinna™ can be recycled again in the same process with other textile waste.
GANNI currently uses 70%+ certified organic or recycled materials across their collections and is committed to using only 100% responsible materials in the future. The brand has done multiple collections utilizing excess stock and fabrics, like their recent collaboration with London-based Ahluwalia. The brand also offers rentals through GANNI Repeat, in-store repairs and is committed to launching resale options for their community at the beginning of 2022.

“At Ganni, we seriously believe that textiles are the new plastics so we need to go fully circular to survive long-term. We currently use recycled or organic materials in 70%+ of our collections and capsules of excess fabric are a fixed part of our product offering, but it’s just the beginning. Infinna™ is an exciting addition to our collections and takes us one step closer to creating more responsible collections. We need more transformative and innovative solutions like this, that increase the value of textile waste instead of the other way around.” Nicolaj Reffstrup, GANNI Founder.

“GANNI is known for its forward-leaning approach to sustainability. Our environmental values are aligned, and we are absolutely delighted to be working with them to add our regenerated Infinna™ fiber to their portfolio of innovative materials. We can’t wait to see #GANNIGirls around the world bring our Infinna™ to life in beautiful clothes, and show off how upbeat and expressive designs created from a material made purely from textiles that have been given a second life can be.” Kirsi Terho, Key Account Director, Infinited Fiber Company.

The products are yet to be confirmed but are expected to launch in 2022.our visitors know a little more about you.

15th December 2021 – release published by AFRY 

Finland-based circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company has selected AFRY as the main engineering partner for its new flagship factory for producing regenerated textile fibers for the world’s leading fashion and apparel brands.

Infinited Fiber Company currently operates pilot plants in Finland and has announced plans to build a flagship factory there to meet the strong demand from international clothing brands. The flagship factory will be the first of its kind in the world and will use post-consumer textile waste as feedstock. Production is scheduled to begin in 2024. In Finland, the national-level collection of textile waste will begin in 2023, and in the EU, the collection of textile waste will become mandatory in 2025, which will facilitate raw material supply.
The annual production capacity of the plant is planned at 30,000 tonnes of Infinna fiber, which corresponds to the amount of fiber needed for about 100 million t-shirts. Infinited Fiber Company has already sold a significant portion of future production through multi-year sales deals with global fashion brands, who see its regenerated Infinna fiber as an important part of their own circular economy strategies.

The total investments for setting up the flagship plant are estimated at around 220 million euros. Infinited Fiber Company expects its currently ongoing evaluation into financing options for the plant to be completed soon. The plant is expected to be operational in 2024.
International technology group ANDRITZ will be a key supplier of the process equipment for the new plant.

Press enquiries and interview requests: Laura Vinha, PR & communications manager, Infinited Fiber Company, laura.vinha@infinitedfiber.com

Additional information: For information (in Finnish) on Lounais-Suomen Jätehuolto’s textile waste refinement plant, please visit https://poistotekstiili.lsjh.fi/

ANDRITZ has a strong product portfolio for the recycling of various materials, including textile waste.
Learn more at https://www.andritz.com/recycling-en and                            https://www.andritz.com/newsroom-en/nonwoven-and-textile/2020-12-04-laroche-nonwoven

 

Infinited Fiber picks site of shut paper plant in Finnish Lapland for its planned EUR 400 million textile fiber factory investment

PRESS RELEASE June 20, 2022
Finnish fashion and textile technology company Infinited Fiber Company plans to build its first commercial-scale Infinna™ fiber factory at Stora Enso’s Veitsiluoto industrial site in the city of Kemi in Finland’s northernmost region of Lapland. Infinited Fiber Company plans to convert a building currently housing a discontinued paper production line.
The size of Infinited Fiber Company’s planned investment is around EUR 400 million. The planned factory is expected to create around 270 jobs at the Veitsiluoto industrial site.
The factory is expected to operate at full capacity in 2025.

Fashion and textile technology company Infinited Fiber Company plans to build a commercial-scale factory to produce regenerated textile fiber for the world’s leading apparel companies at the site of renewable materials company Stora Enso’s closed Veitsiluoto paper mill in Kemi, a Finnish city on the northern shore of the Baltic Sea. The size of the investment is estimated at EUR 400 million, and it is expected to create around 270 jobs in the area. The annual fiber production capacity of the planned factory is expected to be 30,000 metric tons, which is equivalent to the fiber needed for about 100 million T-shirts.

Infinited Fiber Company will convert a building housing a discontinued paper production line into an Infinna™ fiber factory. Both the factory engineering and project implementation as well as the related financing negotiations were commenced at the beginning of the year and are progressing well. Infinited Fiber Company has also agreed on the provision of energy and water related services with utility infrastructure company Nevel.

Once up and running, the factory is expected to provide direct employment for around 220 people, and for a further 50 through on-site support functions such as services, maintenance, and logistics. The additional indirect employment impact is estimated to be around 800 jobs. The construction and installation phase is expected to create jobs equaling around 120 person-years. The factory is anticipated to operate at full capacity in 2025.

“Circularity is at the heart of our business. We aim to make use of existing resources in all that we do, which makes the historic Veitsiluoto industrial site a great fit for us. At the same time, we will be creating new export products and jobs,” says Infinited Fiber Company CEO and co-founder Petri Alava. “Finland has solid bioeconomy know-how and is very supportive of circular economy innovations. We see these as major strengths that enable Finland to become a leader in the creation of the new, circular economy-based textile industry value chain.”

Infinited Fiber Company selected the Veitsiluoto industrial site after reviewing dozens of potential premises across Finland. Decisive factors supporting the decision included the site’s excellent existing infrastructure, the availability of fresh water, renewable electricity and energy, efficient port services, and local skilled labor.

“We are pleased to get part of the Veitsiluoto site utilized and happy about the investments and jobs that Infinited Fiber Company is set to bring there,” says Stora Enso Chief Financial Officer and Finland Country Manager Seppo Parvi.

“Supporting the transition to a climate-positive future through long-term cooperation is extremely important for us. We are delighted to be a utility infrastructure partner for Infinited Fiber Company as it prepares to build its factory in Veitsiluoto, and we believe that this collaboration will also create new opportunities in the area,” says Thomas Luther, CEO of Nevel.

Stora Enso’s closed Veitsiluoto paper mill in Kemi

Tencel

TENCEL™ branded lyocell and modal fibers are produced by environmentally responsible processes from the sustainably sourced natural raw material wood. TENCEL™ fibers are found in the collections of many leading designers and renowned retailers.

TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers Known for their natural comfort, TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers are versatile and can be combined with a wide range of textile fibers such as cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool, and silk to enhance the aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. Unique physical properties of TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers lead to their great strength, efficient moisture absorption and gentleness to skin.

TENCEL™ branded fibers TENCEL™ branded fibers can offer a range of features including botanic origin, sustainable production, gentleness of skin, long-lasting softness, silky smoothness, enhanced breathability, color retention and biodegradability.

The pioneering REFIBRA™ technology involves upcycling cotton scraps from garment production. These cotton scraps are transformed into cotton pulp. A substantial proportion – up to one third – of this is added to wood pulp, and the combined raw material is transformed to produce new virgin TENCEL™ Lyocell fibers to make fabrics and garments.

A prime example of this is TENCEL™’s recent collaboration with Italian fashion sports brand FILA to create a special collection called “FILA White Special” for the autumn and winter season.

Inspired by the beautiful scenery of a luxury alpine resort town in Switzerland’s Engadin valley, the White Special collection features the unique colours of haze blue, coral, light green, jungle brown and irregular camouflage pattern made with flying woven jacquard fabric. This reflects the dreamy image of the early dawn mist rising from the snowy peak mountains.

Core items of the collection include sweaters, jumpers and knit pants. These products are made with fabrics containing TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers, a wood-based fiber sourced from sustainably managed forests, providing comfort with great breathability and moisture management along with FILA’s iconic athleisure style. Stylish fashionistas, sports lovers, and business leisure individuals who are fashionable and environmentally conscious will certainly appreciate the new and exciting FILA X TENCEL™ collaboration that helps them stay cool in style while feeling right, both on the ski slopes and on the streets.

FILA's commitment to offer quality and sustainable products to consumers reinforces the brand’s mission to be a leading authentic performance sport brand. This is inspired by the style, elegance and passion of its Italian heritage with emphasis on high-end fashion, quality and innovation, that began in 1911 at the foothills of the Italian Alps. In an industry which is well known for its environmental impact, FILA and TENCEL™ both share a joint ambition to contribute positively to the well-being of the planet by creating high-quality, stylish clothing pieces which are friendly to the environment.

The FILA White Special collection is available on FILA China’s official website, Tmall FILA store and FILA’s stores in Mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau and Singapore from October 12 onwards.

Based on the same award-winning efficient closed loop production process as standard TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber, REFIBRA™ technology is Lenzing’s first step to contribute to the circular economy in the textile industry.
TENCEL™ fibers with REFIBRA™ technology are identifiable in yarns, fabrics and final garments owing to the innovative special identification technology designed to confirm fiber origin. In turn, this improves supply chain transparency.

Website: http://www.tencel.com/

Head Office

Lenzing, Lenzing Aktienshellchaft, Verksstrase 2, 4860 Lenzing, Austria. Tel: +43(0)7670 701-0, Fax: +43(0)7670 701 3880, email: fibers@lenzing.com

Clothes produced from TENCEL™ fibers

The production process of TENCEL™ Lyocell and TENCEL™ Modal fibers.

SaXcell

SaXcell, an abbreviation of Saxion cellulose, is a regenerated virgin textile fiber made from chemically recycled domestic cotton waste. SaXcell is a dutch spin-off from Saxion University of Applied Sciences. 

Its production starts with sorting domestic cotton textile waste into an as pure as possible, well-defined waste stream. Next, the pure waste unravelled and non-textile components like zippers, nails and buttons are removed. The result is a dry mixture of textile fibers with different fiber lengths. All fiber lengths, long and short, are suitable as raw material for SaXcell.

The dry mixture consists of different colours. It is chemically decoloured and made suitable for the wet spinning process. Wet spinning can be done according viscose at presnet only lyocell process. The end product of this step is SaXcell, a regenerated cellulose fiber. The fiber can be cut to specified lengths, spun into yarns and woven or knitted into fabrics. Colouring can be done at different stages, at the fiber, yarn, or fabric.

Properties of SaXcell fibers: Air-gap spinning: 1,7 dtex, fiber length: 38 mm
                                                   Strength: 43 cN/tex
                                                   Elongation: 13%
                                                   Hydrophilic
                                                   Good dyeability 

Goal: realization of industrial scale production plant(s) and licensing model Construction and operation of pilot plant of 25 ton/yr start production October 2020 Turkish partner Ugurlular start building wet spin plant.

Consortium welcomes pilot cotton recycling plant
A consortium of companies championing a new textile recycling technology has founded a new pilot production plant at which upwards of 50 tonnes of pulp will be produced over the next two years before further work is undertaken to scale.
SaXcell, a spin-off from Saxion University of Applied Sciences in the Netherlands, has the backing of two Dutch firms and three Turkish textile companies, each of which are said to facilitate production of reclaimed cotton pulp.
Wouter Reedijk, of Sympany in the Netherlands, says brands and retailers have expressed interest in the concept, but admits work is still to be done before it can accommodate large orders.

SaXcell BV Sportlaan 62
7581 BZ Losser
(+90) 532 287 18 82
info@saxcell.com
www.saxcell.com

From purified textile waste to regenerated fiber

SaXcell recycle loop

ReNewCell

Scientists at KTH, the Royal Institute of Technology, in Stockholm, had been researching more efficient ways of producing bioethanol by finding a new way to decompose cellulose.

As work progressed they realized that their method could be successful in decomposing the cellulose in cotton and viscose. They were convinced that this could be the key to recycling textiles on a massive scale and make fashion sustainable.

In January 2012 they founded re:newcell. The yellow dress In July 2014 a model walked down a catwalk and into history. The yellow dress she was wearing was made out of blue jeans that had been recycled with re:newcell technology. It was the first garment in the world that had been made from chemically recycled used textiles. It was also the first re:newcell production of a fully recycled garment, soon to be followed by other dresses, a t-shirt, children’s pyjamas and scarf. Two years later six more re:newcell garments could be seen on the catwalk during the Berlin Ethical Fashion Week.

The first plant Following growing demand for re:newcell pulp from the fashion industry, the first re:newcell plant opened in Kristinehamn, Sweden in 2017. It’s a demo plant with the capacity to produce 7,000 tons of re:newcell pulp every year. This is where it will get the experience that will allow to design full-scale plants, that each will produce approximately 30,000 tons of re:newcell pulp per year.

May 7. 2019 re:newcell reaches important milestone with its first commercial sale.
The Swedish chemical textile recycler re:newcell has made its first sale of circular dissolving pulp to an Asian viscose manufacturer. The sale marks an important step in the commercialisation of the company’s breakthrough recycling technology for cotton and cellulosic textile waste. “As far as we’re aware, this is the first delivery of its kind in the world. A true breakthrough for us and for the fashion industry as a whole” says Mattias Jonsson, CEO at re:newcell. The 22 ton shipment of its branded Circulose™ dissolving pulp was produced at re:newcell’s plant in Kristinehamn, Sweden using both postconsumer and postindustrial cotton waste without any virgin material added.

It will be used to manufacture virgin quality viscose staple fiber for commercial retail fashion applications. “Fashion brands are catching up to a shift in consumer demand towards sustainable raw materials. That demand pull is now finally cascading back in the value chain to the fiber producers that we’re talking to” Mr. Jonsson adds. Articles: Veckans Affärer (Swedish) Apparel Insider

Renewcell Named to Fast Company’s Annual List of the World’s Most Innovative Companies for 2021 March 9, 2021 Non Regulatory Renewcell, a fast growing Swedish textile-to-textile recycler, among top-ranked in the Style category. Renewcell has been named to Fast Company’s prestigious annual list of the World’s Most Innovative Companies for 2021. The list honors the businesses that have not only found a way to be resilient in the past year, but also turned those challenges into impact-making processes. These companies did more than survive, they thrived—making an impact on their industries and culture as a whole. This year’s MIC list features 463 businesses from 29 countries. This recognition is the result of hard work on the part of a group of visionary innovators, a world-class team and investors that see the promise of circular fashion innovation. We’re as determined as we’ve ever been to lead the shift to circularity in fashion says Patrik Lundström, CEO of Renewcell. Over the course of 2020, Renewcell reached several milestones on its way to commercialization of it’s patented process for chemical recycling of discarded cotton textiles. The company launched its groundbreaking recycled material Circulose® in retail for the first time together with first H&M and Levi’s, respectively. In November 2020, Renewcell also became a publicly listed company through a siccessful IPO on Nasdaq First North Premier Growth Market, raising equity to finance its next, full scale textile recycling plant in Sundsvall, Sweden. Fast Company’s editors and writers sought out the most groundbreaking businesses across the globe and industries. They also judged nominations received through their application process. The World’s Most Innovative Companies is Fast Company’s signature franchise and one of its most highly anticipated editorial efforts of the year. It provides both a snapshot and a road map for the future of innovation across the most dynamic sectors of the economy.
Demonstration plant in Sweden producing 7,000 tons per year
A full sale plants with 30,000 tons planned

Renewcell’s interim report for Q3 2021 was released November 5, 2021.
It can be found here: https://www.renewcell.com/en/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/interim-report-q3-2021-renewcell-211105.pdf

Website: https://www.renewcell.com/en/

For more information please contact harald.cavalli-bjorkman@renewcell.com

Circulose® presents ‘Cyclical Movements’ — a work by Alexander Wessely and Jacob Mühlrad
November 5, 2021 Non Regulatory

The Swedish visual artist Alexander Wessely’s latest work “Cyclical Movements” is a video piece exploring the concepts of rebirth, circularity and innovation. Incorporating choreography created and performed by ballerina Mia Hjelte and a symphony composed by Jacob Mühlrad, the piece is inspired by cyclical processes involved in creating Circulose®, a new fashion material made from 100% discarded textiles at Renewcell’s factory in Kristinehamn.

Experience Cyclical Movements at circulo.se and in this article in Vogue Scandinavia

Contact Harald Cavalli-Björkman Chief Growth Officer harald.cavalli-bjorkman@renewcell.com +46 70 590 32 04

"Circular cellulose" Circulose® is a branded dissolving pulp product that Renewcell makes from 100% textile waste, such as worn-out jeans and production scraps. Dissolving pulp cellulose is what the textile industry uses to make viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate other types of regenerated fibers (also called ‘man-made cellulosic fibers’). The only difference with Circulose® is that it’s made from textile waste instead of wood.

Website: https://circulo.se/

Renewcell signs deals with European sorters to recycle thousands of tonnes of textiles annually
During December, Renewcell has signed multi-year purchasing agreements with three different European textile sorters — SOEX in Germany, Texaid in Switzerland and Sysav in Sweden. These companies will supply thousands of tonnes of textile waste each year for recycling at Renewcell's new facility in Sundsvall. The deliveries to Renewcell will consist of clothing and other textiles collected from consumers that are not possible to sell second-hand.

With our patented recycling process, we make it possible to create new high-quality textile raw material made entirely from recycled textile waste for the very first time. We are proud to contribute to creating a circular economy for textiles within Europe together with SOEX, Texaid and Sysav. Our joint effort scale up textile recycling is crucial for the EU to achieve the goals set for 2025, says Martin Stenfors, COO at Renewcell.

Re:NewCell AB (publ) (‘Renewcell’) published its interim report for the first quarter 2022 on Wednesday, May 4
Report

 

The 'yellow dress' introduced by Her Royal Highness The Crown Princess of Sweden

Innovative chemical polymer recycling: Worn Again

This concept is focussed on solving the challenging issue of converting polyester and polycotton blended textiles, and PET plastic, at their end of use, back into circular raw materials. The technology is able to separate, decontaminate and extract polyester and cellulose (from cotton) from non-reusable textiles and polyester bottles and packaging to produce dual PET and cellulose outputs, therefore putting sustainable resources back into production supply chains.
https://wornagain.co.uk/

WornAgain

Innovative chemical polymer recycling: Evrnu Regenerative Fiber

Evrnu is the inventor and intellectual property owner of a wide range of NuCycl™Lyocell regenerative fiber technologies, which enable entirely new products to be made from discarded clothing, not just once but multiple times. Even the toughest type of textile waste – 100% post-consumer – can be turned into new materials with NuCycl.
Evrnu technologies are used to create engineered fibers with extraordinary performance and environmental advantages, made from discarded clothing.

NuCycl Technologies by Evrnu Include:
Regenerative Cellulosics.
Next generation regenerative Cellulosic solvent systems (Lyocell)
Regenerative Polyester
Recoverable Stretch
Bio Engineered Fibers

Prototype status 

Evrnu Raises $15M Series B Financing to Scale Its NuCycl™ Fiber Regeneration Technologies
Seattle, WA | November 1, 2021
– Textile innovations company Evrnu announced today the raising of their $15M Series B financing to scale and meet the surging demand for its fiber regeneration platform, NuCycl, as a solution to the textile waste crisis. The round was led by FullCycle Climate Partners, which will also serve as a significant project financing partner. Globally diversified supply chain partners and brands are also joining the round as co-investors including Hansae, Bestseller, and PDS Venture, PDS Multinational Fashions’ venture tech portfolio.
This strategic financing will be used to expand Evrnu’s facilities and operations in South Carolina and service high volumes of NuCycl fibers to the fashion industry. It will also enable key, strategic hires in growth functions and technical roles as Evrnu expedites global deployment of NuCycl to meet the scale required to alleviate dependency on virgin resources and create material emissions reductions throughout the fashion value chain.
Having developed the technologies to address the recycling of 90%+ of all apparel, with one patent granted and several others pending, Evrnu is on course to deploy technologies that allow for all textiles to be successfully recycled by 2030.

https://www.evrnu.com/

 

Ioncell

Ioncell in a nutcell

Raw material
The Ioncell method developed by Aalto University and the University of Helsinki can be used to produce high-quality textile fiber from wood, recycled paper and cardboard, and textile waste. The recycling of hemp knitwear into new Ioncell® fibers has also been studied.

Method
The Ioncell manufacturing process uses an ionic liquid to dissolve the cellulose, after which the fibers are prepared using the air gap spinning method. The only chemicals used are non-toxic ionic liquid and water. They can be recycled in the process, which is important from an ecological point of view.

Material Properties
Ioncell fiber has the soft feel of natural fiber, a silky sheen and is very strong even when wet. The fabric made of fiber is very dyeable and easy to work with. Ioncell fiber is also biodegradable as such. When studying the recycling of hemp knit to Ioncell fibers, the properties of the material only improved in the recycling process. Compared to the original hemp knit, the Ioncell knit was not only stronger but also shinier and softer.

Objectives and collaboration
Although the development of Ioncell fiber has so far been a research project, the goal is to commercialize the fiber in the coming years. A pilot-scale production plant for the development of Ioncell is currently being built in Otaniemi and its first runs are planned for early 2021. The aim is also to find an industrial player for the Ioncell project. Over the years, Ioncell fiber has been tested in a variety of applications, with several companies. Demos have been made for woven fabrics and knitwear, either as 100% Ioncell or blended with other fibers. Research projects are also currently underway on how Ioncell fiber can be used to make carbon fibers. Carbon fibers can be used, for example, as a reinforcing fiber for composites. Ioncell fibers are also suitable to produce nonwovens. n 2020, Ioncell fiber was tested by manufacturing a Unikko pattern dress together with Marimekko. Soluble pulp made of birch was chosen as the raw material for the fiber. The production of new fibers from used cotton roll towels was modelled with Lindström. Products made of Ioncell fiber are on display at Aalto University.

The Ioncell process uses a novel solvent called ionic liquid. It’s an environmentally friendly solvent that can be recycled and isn’t flammable like many others. Ioncell fibers feel soft and are strong even when wet. They’re tenacious and work well in both clothing and technical applications. The Ioncell process could revolutionize the recycling of textile waste. It enables waste textiles to get a new life as high-quality fibers. There are two possebilities the Ioncell fibers can made from recycled textiles or virgin birch fibers.

 

The ionic solvents are familiar, among other things, to Mrs Jenni Haukio's evening dress made of Ioncell cellulose fiber
Melting pieces of wood together without glue, cellulose acetate on filters and various films, cellulose-based textile fibers. The production of such potentially future-revolutionary products requires the development of ionic solvents developed by the University of Helsinki's Chemistry Professor Ilkka Kilpeläinen and his research colleagues, Alistair King and Jussi Helminen. In March 2019, the trio founded a company called Liuotin group Oy, the purpose of which is to start manufacturing solvents for the needs of Aalto University's pilot production line and possibly also of large industrial plants. - Our company is an enabler. We want to ensure that, if necessary, these adhesives are available at a reasonable price. Now, such a solvent is on the market at a price of about $ 4,000. Many of the best performing ionic solvents are not even commercially available. We are going to push the price down a fraction of this, maybe about ten euros, Kilpeläinen explains.

An ionic liquid invented by researchers at the University’s Department of Chemistry uses cellulose to replace cotton and synthetic fibres. Revolutionising the recycling of cotton, the Ioncell-F process won the H&M Global Change Award. The process was developed through collaboration between the University of Helsinki, Aalto University and the VTT Technical Research Centre of Finland.

Ionic solvents have been investigated and developed at the University of Helsinki for years. The researchers headed by Professor Ilkka Kilpeläinen made a breakthrough in 2013 when they discovered an ionic liquid that dissolves fibre and has promising properties for the reuse of chemicals. Kilpeläinen’s method for dissolving cellulose with new solvents is non-toxic and environmentally friendly, consumes little water and does not place as heavy a burden on the environment as traditional methods for the production of cotton or viscose. “I believe that in the future we will have many methods to isolate the components of wood from each other and to convert them into biodegradable materials,” says Professor Ilkka Kilpeläinen of the University of Helsinki. “Cellulose can also be used to manufacture heat-mouldable resistant materials like plastic

Ioncell fibers feel soft and are strong even when wet. The fiber properties of Ioncell are equal or better than viscose and Tencel® fibers. Because of their high tenacity, Ioncell fibers are optimal in technical applications such as composites. Ioncell fiber properties Moisture absorbing Biodegradable Bright lustre Can be dyed like cotton and viscose.

Ioncell team and collaborators
Aalto CHEM, Biorefineries research group, Prof. Herbert Sixta
University of Helsinki, Materials Chemistry, Organic Chemistry research group, Prof. Ilkka Kilpeläinen and Dr. Alistair King Aalto ARTS,
Aalto Arts The Fashion/Textile Futures research group, Prof. Kirsi Niinimäki 
Aalto Chem. Chemical Engineering research group, Prof. Ville Alopaeus
Aalto Chem. Plant Design, Prof. Pekka Oinas
Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås
University of Tampere/Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences

https://ioncell.fi/

Janne Laine
Business inquiries
Aalto University
vp-innovation@aalto.fi
tel: +358 50 465 6835

On the left is Pirjo Kääriäinen, Princess Victoria, Ali Harlin, Herbert Sixta and Michael Hummel. Image of H&M Conscious Foundation.

The H&M Conscious Foundation is looking for new ideas for the sustainable development of the textile industry through the Global Change Award competition. More than 2,700 proposals from 112 countries arrived. Among them, the jury, compiled by H&M, chose five winners, with the most votes cast in the public vote for the chemical recycling of cotton using the environmentally friendly Ioncell-F ™ method. The idea behind it is Professor Herbert Sixta's research team from Aalto University - researchers Michael Hummel, Anne Michud, Shirin Asaadi and Professor Pirjo Kääriäinen and researcher Marjaana Tanttu - Professors Ilkka Kilpeläinen and Alistair King and Doctoral Candidate Arno Parviainen from the University of Helsinki and Research Professor Ali Harlin from VTT Technical Research Center of Finland at VTT . The award awarded by the H&M Conscious Foundation is EUR 1,000,000, of which the winner was awarded a prize in the Stockholm City Hall on 10 February 2016 for EUR 300,000. Secondly, the finalist voted € 250,000 and the other three finalists € 150,000. With cash prizes, working groups develop their ideas forward. All five winners will also have access to a year-long innovation training organized by the H&M Conscious Foundation, Accenture and KTH Innovation (Royal College of Technology, Stockholm). Filling material for fashion raw material Population growth and improved living standards have accelerated the demand for textile fibers, but increasing cotton production, for example, is difficult due to the need for cultivation and irrigation water. Developed at the Aalto University School of Chemical Technology and the University of Helsinki in collaboration with the Laboratory of Organic Chemistry, Ioncell-F ™ is an environmentally friendly and non-toxic method that can be used to dissolve cotton waste using the ionic solvent developed by the University of Helsinki. The development of the method for pre-treatment of cotton waste has been the responsibility of VTT

Doctoral Thesis     
Simone Haslinger: Towards a Closed Loop Economy in Textile Industry: Separation, Dyeing and Re-Spinning of Cellose Rich Textile Waste. (2020)
Shirin Asaadi: Dry-Jet Wet Spinning of Technical and Textile Filament Fibers from a Solution of Wood Pulp and Waste Cotton in an Ionic Liquid. (2019)
Yibo Ma: Fibre spinning from various low refined, recycled lignocelluloses using ionic liquid (2018)                  

Roadmap for Ioncell® commercialization

Former Commander of Defense Forces, General Jaakko Valtanen shaking hands with President of the Republic Sauli Niinistö and Mrs. Jenni Haukio as the first guest at the Independence Day reception at the Presidential Palace in Helsinki on 6 December 2018. The suit of Mrs. Haukio was prepared from Ioncell fibers of virgin birch. Photo: Lehtikuva / Jussi Nukari

Spinnova

Spinnova Spinnova is a Finnish sustainable fibre company that develops ecological breakthrough technology for manufacturing cellulose-based textile fibre. Spinnova’s patented technology includes 0% harmful chemicals and 0% waste or side streams, making the fibre and the production method the most sustainable in the world. Spinnova’s raw material commitment is to only use FSC certified wood or waste streams. Spinnova’s objective is to globally commercialize the fibre products in collaboration with major textile brands. www.spinnova.com

Fortum enters into partnership with Spinnova to continue building its bio-based ecosystem. Spinnova Fortum and Spinnova Oy, a developer of sustainable textile fibre, have entered into a partnership to produce fibre from agro residues and woody biomass. The cooperation is another step towards

Fortum’s strategy to build options for significant new businesses that improve resource efficiency and provide smart solutions for a cleaner world. Fortum is currently evaluating different biomass fractionation technologies and has identified microfibrillated cellulose (MFC) as one potential intermediate product from the cellulose fraction.

Spinnova’s technology, presently in the large industrial-scale piloting phase, turns MFC directly into fibre without any dissolving or harmful chemical processes. The process is closed and the resulting recyclable fibre is a more sustainable alternative to cotton and fossil-based raw materials used in various textile fibres and fabrics. “Spinnova’s disruptive technology is unique in the world. We are delighted to be able to pilot it together using innovative raw materials, especially agro residues. In the bioeconomy, studying a wide range of material and process options is necessary in order to achieve optimal application qualities. Therefore working together with technology companies at an early phase is crucial,” says Heli Antila, Vice President, Biobased solutions at Fortum. “We want to engage key industry players to cooperate in the development and production of sustainable materials.”

Material innovation company Spinnova and the world’s largest wood pulp producer Suzano will make an estimated 22 million euro investment to build the first commercial scale SPINNOVA®production facility in Finland. The total investment, including all needed infrastructure such as real estate, is estimated to be some 50 million euros. Spinnova’s sustainable fibre, created out of wood and waste without the use of harmful chemicals, will be available for global textile brands in 2022.

The new, industrial scale production unit will be located in Jyväskylä, Finland, home of Spinnova’s R&D hub and pilot facility. Production will be managed and operated by a new joint venture company owned 50/50 by Spinnova and their partner and investor, Suzano. The joint venture investment is estimated to be 22 million euros in size. According to Spinnova, the total investment, encompassing all needed infrastructure such as real estate, is some 50 million euros. The real estate will be built and rented for the joint venture by the Jyväskylä real estate development company Jykia.

“Suzano uses only planted trees in its production processes. This renewable raw material is being combined with Spinnova’s technology for producing fibres that are more sustainable than the options currently available in the textile industry, which is aligned with the demands of contemporary society”, says Fernando Bertolucci, Chief Technology and Innovation Officer of Suzano.

With a process that uses no harmful chemicals and 99% less water than the cotton value chain, the SPINNOVA® fibre can be considered the most sustainable textile fibre there is. Fibre produced this way creates minimal CO2 emissions, is quickly biodegradable and contains no microplastics. The fact that these fibres can be recycled into a new fibre again and again makes the SPINNOVA® fibre disruptively circular. The Spinnova technology enables textile fibre production out of wood but also from textile waste or agricultural waste such wheat or barley straw.

Spinnova in a nutcell

Raw material
SPINNOVA® fibre is produced by mechanically grinding the pulp into microfibrillated cellulose (MFC). Spinnova currently uses FSC-certified wood pulp as its raw material, but the raw material used is, for example, textile waste containing cellulose or agricultural waste such as wheat or barley straw.

Method
This technology use only mechanically refine pulp as raw material, and transforms that into spinning-ready fibre suspension without harmful chemistry. No dissolving, no regeneration.The closed loop manufacturing process does not require any harmful chemicals or solvents and does not generate waste streams. The method is significantly more environmentally friendly than the production of cotton or viscose: for example, according to Spinnova, water consumption is 99% lower than that of cotton. After use, the material can be recycled in the same process repeatedly, without compromising the quality of the fibre. The fibre produced with Spinnova's technology is low-emission and as such biodegradable.

Material Properties
The feel of the material is closest to cotton or linen. The fibre is strong, well dyed and has thermal insulation like wool.

Objectives and cooperation
Spinnova fibre is already on the verge of commercialization. In February, Spinnova and Suzano announced that they would invest EUR 22 million in a commercial-scale SPINNOVA® fiber production plant to be built in Finland in 2022. The plant will be built by a joint venture between Spinnova and Suzano and will be in Jyväskylä, where the Spinnova pilot plant is already located.
Suzano is the world's leading eucalyptus pulp company and co-owner of Spinnova. Spinnova is the technology supplier of the joint venture, and Suzano is responsible for the availability of microfibrillated cellulose from cultured eucalyptus. The fibre produced by the factory is sold under the SPINNOVA® trademark. Spinnova fibre will be available to global textile brands in 2022. The company estimates that production capacity for the new plant will be reserved during this year.
Lenzing has also been a strategic partner and owner of Spinnova since the beginning. Lenzing is one of the world's best-known manufacturers of cellulose-based textile fibres such as viscose and lyocell.
Spinnova collaborates with international clothing brands such as H&M and Bestseller. In 2020, Marimekko and Spinnova introduced the first test batch of printed garments made of Spinnova fibre, combined with cotton or lyocell. Together with Bergans in Norway, Spinnova has developed the Collection of Tomorrow collection of fully recyclable products, the products of which have already been available to consumers.

Spinnova invests in an in-house R&D yarn spinning line
The sustainable textile material company Spinnova has decided on a new investment in its R&D capabilities; an industrial scale in-house yarn spinning facility. This investment will streamline Spinnova’s commercial textile development, enhance brand collaborations, and further improve Spinnova’s market entry capabilities.
Spinnova has decided to make an estimated 2.2-million-euro investment in an in-house yarn spinning facility for research and development purposes. The project has had strong support from the local Jyväskylä business community, and approximately 600 thousand euros of development grant funding from the Central Finland branch of the Centre for Economic Development, Transport and the Environment. The funding is included in the estimated investment total.
The rationale behind the investment is that in Spinnova’s commercial stage, a local in-house spinning line will simplify the bigger scale R&D process and enable fast turnaround of product development with a large number of brand partners.
In its pre-commercial stage, Spinnova now collaborates closely with Rieter and several other spinning partners on yarn development. Spinnova also has international yarn specialists in its own team.
– The close proximity of a spinning facility will make a huge difference in our commercial phase. We can make fast trials, not lose lead time, and test smaller batches than before. This will significantly improve the textile R&D with our wood-based SPINNOVA® fibre, and is also a valuable investment in future R&D with our alternative, waste raw material verticals, explains Spinnova’s CEO and co-founder Janne Poranen.
Spinnova’s clean technology can also convert various waste streams such as leather and agricultural waste into textile fibre. Being able to test new raw materials all the way to the yarn stage significantly speeds up their feasibility studies or actual product development journeys.
Spinnova has chosen Rieter, a Swiss-based market leader in cotton spinning technology, to supply the technology needed for the new facility.
– Sustainability is an integral part of the Rieter strategy, and fibers with minimal environmental impact play an important role in sustainable yarn production. Rieter is pleased to contribute with its state-of-the-art machinery to Spinnova’s product development, says Roger Albrecht, Head of the Machines & Systems Business Group at Rieter.
The technology is estimated to be delivered by year-end 2022. The facility will be built in Jyväskylä, where Spinnova’s pilot facility produces fibre already, and where Spinnova’s and its partner Suzano’s Woodspin commercial joint venture fibre factory is being built. Further timetable and implementation details will be advised later.
This investment has minimal effect on Spinnova’s financial performance in 2021-2022.

Janne Poranen
Chief Executive Officer Spinnova Plc
janne.poranen@spinnova.com
+358 400 138 711

Spinnova-Suzano factory construction makes headway as planned in Finland
Woodspin, the joint venture of the sustainable textile material company Spinnova and its strategic partner, pulp company Suzano, is proceeding with its factory project in Central Finland according to the original schedule. The production spaces are expected to be ready for technology installations at the end of next summer, and for the factory to be completed by end of 2022. On the south side of Jyväskylä in Central Finland, one can already see the Woodspin factory complex take shape. The facility is the first commercial factory of Woodspin, a joint venture between Spinnova and Suzano, and a start to what will be some million tonnes of annual global volume of SPINNOVA® fibre capacity within 10-12 years.
The main contractor SRV has proceeded on schedule in the project, lead by local real-estate developer Jykia. The production spaces for manufacturing the highly sustainable SPINNOVA® fibre are estimated to be ready for technology installations at the end of summer of 2022, and for the factory to be completed by end of 2022.
The factory complex will include Spinnova’s and Suzano’s joint venture Woodspin’s fibre production, Suzano Finland’s micro-fibrillated cellulose (MFC) refining, as well as Spinnova’s headquarters and some of its product development functions.

https://spinnova.com/

Read more:
https://www.fortum.com/media/2019/04/fortum-complements-its-value-chain-biorefining-investing-infinited-fiber-company
https://www.fortum.com/media/2019/02/fortums-biorefinery-project-india-aims-convert-bamboo-biofuel

Spinnova-Suzano factory construction makes headway as planned in Finland

ECONYL®

ECONYL® regenerated nylon, a product of Aquafil Group. They primarily manufacture Nylon 6 fibers and polymers but also Nylon 6.6 and Dryarn. Nylon waste – such as abandoned fishing nets or textile production scraps – is recovered and converted into new yarn, which has the same qualitative characteristics as traditional nylon. ECONYL® Regeneration System: a industrial process that allows replacing caprolactam (the main component to produce Nylon 6, derived from oil) with alternative raw materials coming from the recycling of various types of nylon waste.

https://www.econyl.com/

 

Eco Circle™ Fibers

Eco Circle™ Fibers by Teijin is concept to recycle polyester materials. 
In principle, recycling of a mixed-fibre product is feasible but the end-product is restricted to mono-fibre articles like functional sports shirts from polyester →most recycled fibres are not made from post-consumer garments but from other sources of used plastics, such as PET bottles.
1. Material is cut and washed 2. Compounding / Solving in ethylene glycol 3. Reaction with methanol.

Functionalities added by fiber shapes
- This new functional polyester has a unique cross-sectional shape comprised of four flat mountains
- Features multi-functionality, including softness and draping, sweat absorption, quick-dry, anti-see-through, and windbreak functions.
Functionality and sensitivity achieved by the thinness of the fibers
- Tender feel achieved by ultrafine fibers
Characteristics obtained by pasting fibers together
- Features a feel with a wool-like fluffiness, spun-touch, resilience, elasticity, and firmness.
Functionalities achieved by processing
- Highly water-resistant, moisture permeable material created by using ECOPET®

 

https://ecopet.info/en/

ECO CIRCLE™ concept

Innovative hydro-thermal (chemical) recycling

The hydrothermal system can separate blended materials, to make “closed-loop recycling” possible. Cotton and polyester blends – fibres with different properties – can be efficiently separated and recovered for re-use. The whole process uses only heat, water and less than 5% of a biodegradable green chemical to achieve a recovery rate of over 98% for polyester fibres in 0.5-2 hours. The separated polyester material is recovered in fibre form, ready for spinning and manufacturing into new fabric. So there is now no need for additional complex treatments like polymerisation and melt spinning. Cellulose is separated and recovered in powder form. This material is decomposed from cotton and can be applied to functional products that require super-absorbency materials or can be regenerated into cellulose fibres.

8 December, 2020. Now, the H&M Foundation donates 100 million SEK (USD 12 million), and the Hong Kong Government’s Innovation & Technology Fund gives additional funding based on the H&M Foundation’s donation under existing funding mechanism, which results in a total estimated budget of USD 100 million over five years.
“Our partnership with the H&M Foundation is guided by speed, scale and impact. Our goal is to find technologies and solutions that we openly share with the industry to ensure rapid scaling and positive impact. To our knowledge, this is the most ambitious program in our industry to move the needle in this field, and we are very excited to start discovering the breakthroughs that can change the game,” says Edwin Keh, CEO of HKRITA.

Garment to Garment Recycling System
The Garment to Garment Recycling System is a mini-production line used to process post-consumer garments into clean and wearable recycled garments. The system uses no water, no dyeing is needed. The first system is located at The Mills, a revitalized art and cultural complex in Hong Kong.

Application It involves eight steps:
1) Sanitization First, used garments are sanitized in an ozone chamber to remove microorganisms on the clothes.
2) Opening The used garments are then shredded into their constituent yarns and fibre particles in a fibre opening machine.
3) Cleaning Next, the shredded material is divided into clumps of fibre and impurities attached to the clumps are removed in a cleaning machine.
4) Carding The clumps are then carded and aligned in the same orientation, and so become fibre web.
5) Drawing The next step involves the fibre web being formed into slivers and a number of slivers being drawn together to form straightened units with improved evenness.
6) Rotor Spinning A number of these drawn slivers are fed into a high-speed rotor and spun into single yarn.
7) Doubling & Twisting Two single yarns are then combined and this double yarn is fed into a twister machine, which converts the yarn into ply yarn to enhance strength and balance torque.
8) Knitting Finally, either new garments are made using a whole garment knitting machine, or knitted fabrics are produced by a flatbed knitting machine.

https://www.hkrita.com/home.php

AMBECYCLE

Ambercycle is a materials science company dedicated to ending waste in the fashion industry and creating the ecosystem for infinite textiles. Founded in 2015, the Los Angeles based company is developing and scaling a breakthrough technology to produce regenerated alternatives to conventional materials. Ambercycle’s first solution, cycora®, is a premium fabric made from end-of-life textile waste.

The Ambercycle ecosystem entails:
Collection of landfill-destined textiles
Preprocessing for regeneration (sorting and cutting / shredding) Ambercycling Spinning new yarns
Integrating regenerated materials back into supply chains
Creating pathways for this process to happen infinitely

Ambercycling
1. Post-consumer, end-of-life textiles are intercepted from the landfill. Hardware, such as buttons and zippers, is removed
2. Textiles are shredded and fed into a series of reactors
3. The polyester is separated from cellulosic materials (cotton, viscose, etc.), dyes, and other components. These other components are recovered as a pulp
4. The polyester is further purified and reconstituted into pellets (we call our polyester cycora®)
5. The regenerated cycora® pellets are spun into new fibers and yarns, for use in brand new apparel This cycle can be repeated again and again, enabling the ecosystem for infinite textiles

cycora™ is made from end-of-life clothing into the same PET plastic pellets that would have been otherwise derived from oil. we use the regenerated pellets to make new clothes the same way oil-derived pellets are used

Ambercycle Raises $21.6 Million to Build Circularity Ecosystem in the Fashion Industry
January 4, 2022 Share this post Materials science company Ambercycle Inc. announced today the closing of an oversubscribed $21.6 million Series A financing from H&M CO:LAB, KIRKBI, Temasek, BESTSELLER’s Invest FWD, and Zalando. With this new funding, Ambercycle has raised a total of $27 million in order to develop infrastructure and materials for circularity within the fashion industry.

“We are delighted to support Ambercycle with this recent collection and are excited to continue being part of their successful journey. The H&M Group has an ambitious goal of making our business fully circular by 2030 and we truly believe in the team behind Ambercycle with their exceptional dedication to their mission. With this new funding round we look forward to partnering with them as they scale commercially.” said Erik Karlsson, Acting Head of H&M CO:LAB.

https://ambercycle.com/

 

 

CIRC 

A start up in USA, aims on creating a technology system that returns clothes to the raw materials from which they were made. Their purpose is to discover a path to erase the global fashion footprint. It's the former Tyton BioSciences.

Unspooling and retooling the world’s fabric resources We make the technology to (re)source nature’s raw ingredients. We enable fashion labels to harness our proprietary technology that (re)sources and (re)harvests raw ingredients out of clothing waste. Today, we aim to entirely eliminate the demand for raw ingredients needed to make clothing by creating new clothes entirely out of old ones. Your trash is our treasure.

The technology used is Hydrothermal processing
In layman’s terms, we’ve basically figured out how to use water, pressure and responsible chemistry to recover the Earth’s ingredients from man-made products to make incredibly useful new materials. It all started with biofuels and ended up with clothing fibers. It’s part recycling, part kickass science.

Danville, VA (August 3, 2021) – CIRC, the US-based mixed textile recycling technology innovator, and ANDRITZ, an Austria-based international technology group, have formalized a partnership to bring CIRC’s patented textile recycling technology to commercial scale using ANDRITZ’s engineering expertise and world-class equipment. As part of a shared, long-term commercial vision, ANDRITZ will design and manufacture continuous process equipment for CIRC facilities globally. The agreement comes after many months of successful CIRC processing trials in various ANDRITZ’s research and development facilities.
CIRC’s mission is to power the clean closet—where one’s clothes are produced from raw materials recovered from a circular textile economy, preserving the earth’s natural resources in nature. CIRC’s technology is uniquely capable of separating and recovering mixed polymer streams, specifically any blend of polyester and cotton, which accounts for most fabrics manufactured.

ANDRITZ’s international technology group provides plants, systems, equipment, and services for various industries all over the globe. It is a world leader in customized engineering for special technologies and also in optimized solutions for mature industry applications. Through its robust pilot and commercial production testing assets and optimization capabilities, ANDRITZ can translate unique technology capabilities into market dominance.

Dr. Julie Willoughby, CIRC’s Chief Scientific Officer, said, “ANDRITZ has global reach, depth of expertise, and a solid reputation for executing world-class projects. The ANDRITZ team is working shoulder-to-shoulder with CIRC to implement our vision of a circular economy for textiles and beyond. We are delighted with the high competence of ANDRITZ’s people, and we are beyond excited for our next chapters together.”
CIRC and ANDRITZ are focused on rapid commercialization and growth of CIRC’s patented recycling process. The partners have not yet announced a timeline for building and commissioning the first commercial facilities.

Web site: https://circ.earth/

Raw material

Recycled and re-spun fibers

Other initiatives of finnish industry to use recycable and renewable biobased materials in textile industry as raw materials

Metsä Spring

Material
The raw material used is undried paper pulp from Metsä Fiber, part of the Metsä Group.

Method
The method is based on direct leaching using a completely new, pulp-dissolving ionic compound.

Material properties
The Kuura textile fiber produced by the Metsä Group's innovation company, Metsä Spring, is lyocell-like, biodegradable and recyclable in the process.

Objectives and cooperation
Metsä Spring and the Japanese Itochu Corporation established a joint venture in the spring of 2018, within the framework of which an industrial pilot plant was first built in Äänekoski. The capacity of the factory is tons per day. The first production batch of textile fiber was completed in autumn 2020 and the pilot plant phase is estimated to take about 2 years. If the functionality of the manufacturing method and the attractiveness of Kuura fiber in the market can be demonstrated, Metsä Group will consider investing in a larger textile fiber factory in connection with its bioproduct factory. The first plant could have a production capacity of up to 50,000 tons per year.
Itochu, which manufactures model products in cooperation with various end customers, is responsible for the application testing of textile fiber batches produced from the pilot plant. Kuura textile fiber will be introduced to the general public at Japan Fashion Week in March 2021, along with Itochu and clothing brand The Reracs.

In 2020, Metsä Group and Fortum began cooperating in the ExpandFibre project. The goal of the Business Finland locomotive project is to develop technologies and business concepts that can be used to make textile fibers and other new bioproducts from straw and wood pulp.
The pulp used to make Kuura fibre is produced in Metsä Group’s bioproduct mill in Äänekoski, Finland. This is the first pulp mill in the world that does not consume fossil fuels. By integrating the textile fibre production directly to the bioproduct mill we are able to utilize the environmental friendly industrial ecosystem and make the production of Kuura fibre efficient and fossil-free as well.

Very good sustainability results for Metsä Group’s Kuura textile fibre
The Spanish private research organisation CARTIF has completed a first assessment focusing on the environmental and social performance of Metsä Group’s Kuura textile fibre. Kuura is still in a R&D phase and the production process to make it is currently being tested and further developed at a ton per day demo plant in Äänekoski, Finland. The outcome of the assessment conducted by CARTIF is very good for Kuura. In regard to environmental performance, when comparing to other commercial man-made cellulosic fibres (viscose and lyocell), and to cotton, Kuura shows the lowest impact on climate change, supporting its viability as a sustainable solution in the market of textile fibres. More specifically, the use of local, sustainably managed wood raw material combined with the use of fully fossil-free energy obtained from the existing industrial mill site and with a novel process for the production of Kuura textile fibre result in a product with a clear climate change mitigation potential compared to the use of existing commercial textile fibres.

The market testing of Kuura textile fiber is progressing
The development of Kuura textile fiber is in the so-called demo phase.
This phase, which focuses on research and development, will be carried out in cooperation between the Japanese Itochu and Metsä Group's innovation company Metsä Spring. The joint venture set up by the parties at the end of 2018 will operate a pilot plant in Äänekoski, and at the same time Itochu will test the market's interest in Kuura textile fiber. Itochu, in collaboration with Japanese clothing brand The Reracs, has developed a soft fur fabric based on Kuura textile fiber. Similarly, a limited batch of jackets has been made for the Japanese market.

“Our project with Itochu consists of two parts. On the one hand, we develop and test a new manufacturing method and, on the other hand, we collect feedback from potential customers regarding Kuura textile fiber. It is great to see how our Kuura fiber is transformed into different end products, such as the soft coat in this project, ”says Niklas von Weymarn, CEO of Metsä Spring.

https://www.kuura.io/

The pilot mill to produce Kuura fibers

Fortum

Material
Fortum's Bio2 ™ Textile fiber raw material is straw-fractionated cellulose, which is spun with selected fiber technology.

Method
At Fortum's biorefineries, the biomass raw material will be processed using fractionation technology developed by Chempolis Oy. The technology separates cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin into their own fractions with a material efficiency of up to 90 percent. The fractions can be further processed with different technologies for numerous different applications. The most advanced product development is the processing of straw-fractionated cellulose into textile fiber.

Objectives and cooperation
Currently, a huge amount of biomass is wasted in the world. Straw is a by-product of grain production that is often untapped and often burned, especially in developing countries. This results in huge CO2 emissions. Fortum Bio2X's goal is to develop high-value products that are particularly sustainable from agricultural residues that can replace fossil and otherwise
environmentally harmful raw materials. The use of straw as a raw material minimizes waste and reduces the environmental impact of carbon dioxide emissions, water consumption and the use of chemicals. In addition, soil degradation and deforestation can be reduced, and regional prosperity increased.

The journey of the Bio2X ecosystem has started promisingly: the first commercial biorefinery is under construction in India as a joint venture, which is scheduled to start in 2022. In addition, the first straw-based garments have already been manufactured using various technologies.

In 2019, Fortum piloted the world's first wheat straw outfit with Spinnova. In early 2021, Bio2 ™ Textile fiber was seen in the AW21 collection by top Finnish designer Rolf Ekroth, which was presented to an international audience at Pitti Connect. The Bio2 ™ Textile fibers used in the collection were manufactured using Infinited Fiber Company technology.

Fortum and Metsä Group join forces with Business Finland to create a world-class R&D programme with pulp fibre from renewable and sustainable sources as its node. The 4-year joint R&D programme, called ExpandFibre, aims to develop ground-breaking technologies and smart business concepts that are required to convert straw and wood pulp fibre into novel bioproducts, such as textile fibres. The R&D programme has been granted EUR 20 million from Business Finland.
ExpandFibre will be part of a global innovation ecosystem. The ExpandFibre partners Fortum and Metsä Group want to encourage the members of the ecosystem to significantly accelerate their efforts within the circular bioeconomy. Members of the ecosystem can apply for financing from Business Finland or from the EU.
Already today, Finland is a leader in the circular bioeconomy. In addition to production and export of physical bioproducts, such as pulp, paper, board, and solid wood products, Finland is also known for having one of the highest standards in terms of biomass management, for its technology suppliers, and its education curriculum, as well as for its engineering and R&D services. ExpandFibre builds on this profound knowledge platform with a mission to provide selected markets with new, high-volume bioproducts that have a significantly lower carbon footprint compared to similar (but fossil-based) products available today.
“We are excited to enter into this innovative partnership through ExpandFibre and are looking forward to mutually rewarding cooperation within the whole ecosystem. With this setup, Fortum will continue building on its pioneering bioproducts vision: bringing residual straw raw material into industrial processing and further into environmentally friendly materials and chemicals. Our aim is to develop high-value end-products from all the main components of straw – cellulose, hemicellulose and lignin,” explains Risto Sormunen, Head of Bio2X Development at Fortum.
“Metsä Group is firmly rooted in the sustainably managed Finnish forests. Finding new, added-value applications for pulp fibre obtained from our Northern wood is a key R&D target for the group. We are thrilled to partner up with Business Finland and Fortum in the ExpandFibre programme and we are very much looking forward to co-creating new technologies and concepts within the partnership and as part of the larger innovation ecosystem,” says Niklas von Weymarn, CEO of Metsä Group’s innovation company Metsä Spring.
ExpandFibre is a unique collaboration scheme to be launched during the summer of 2020 and extending until August 2024. The programme focuses on seven research themes:

Textiles
Biocomposites
Packaging materials
Other new fibre products
Hemicellulose
Lignin Sourcing and fractionation of straw

The value chains of interest to the ExpandFibre programme are all based on renewable and sustainable raw materials, namely straw and Northern wood. Importantly, ExpandFibre is challenging other actors of related value chains to accelerate their efforts in building a world-leading innovation ecosystem together and, subsequently, enabling new bioproducts and green businesses to reach commercial maturity.

For further information, please contact:
Risto Sormunen, Head of Bio2X Development, Fortum, tel. +358 50 453 4615
Niklas von Weymarn, CEO, Metsä Spring, tel. +358 40 547 6977
Juha Laine, SVP, Communications, Metsä Group, tel. +358 10 465 4541

Biocelsol

Material
Biocelsol is made mainly of soluble pulp from wood, but the fibers are also made from cellulose separated from paper pulp and textile waste containing cotton.

Method
Biocelsol is a technology developed by VTT and University of Tampere/Faculty of Engineering and Natural Sciences, in which cellulose is treated with enzymes, dissolved by the cold alkali method and spun into fibers by the wet spinning technique. The brightness of the fibers is the same as that of the starting material, and when using soluble pulp, the fibers do not need to be bleached. The process does not use toxic chemicals and does not release harmful emissions.

Material properties
The finished fiber has viscose-like properties, but the moisture absorption of the fiber is better than that of cotton or viscose, so for example, the colorability of the fiber is very good and the material is not electrifiable. The material made of Biocelsol fiber is descending and warming and softer than cotton.

Objectives and co-operation
VTT is currently looking for partners with whom Biocelsol technology and product applications can be further developed together. International interest in the technology is currently high.

Biocelsol process: https://telaketju.turkuamk.fi/uploads/2021/01/a1fb2d43-circular-tex-fin-swe_biocelsol-process-pitch.pdf

 

Over 30 renowned fashion brands, manufacturers and recyclers are collaborating in a new initiative to capture and reuse textile waste in Bangladesh.

Global Fashion Agenda today announced the participants of the Circular Fashion Partnership, including the global brands Bershka, Bestseller, C&A, Gina Tricot, Grey State, H&M Group, Kmart Australia, Marks & Spencer, OVS, Pull & Bear, Peak Performance and Target Australia. The Circular Fashion Partnership is a cross-sectorial project led by Global Fashion Agenda, with partners Reverse Resources, The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) and P4G, that aims to achieve a long-term, scalable transition to a circular fashion system*.

The partnership facilitates circular commercial collaborations between major fashion brands, textile and garment manufacturers, and recyclers to develop and implement new systems to capture and direct post-production fashion waste back into the production of new fashion products. In addition, the partnership seeks to find solutions for the COVID-19 related pile-up of deadstock and to engage regulators and investors around the current barriers and economic opportunities in the country.

Participating brands, garment manufacturers and recyclers include:
Brands: Bershka, Bestseller, C&A, Gina Tricot, Grey State, H&M Group, Kmart Australia, Marks & Spencer, OVS, Pull & Bear, Peak Performance and Target Australia Manufacturers: Amantex, Asrotex Group, Auko-tex Group, Aurum Sweaters, Beximco, Bitopi Group (Tarasima), Composite Knitting Industry Ltd., Crystal International Group Limited, Echotex, , Fakir Knitwear, GSM, J.M. Fabrics, Knit Asia, MAS Intimates, Ratul Group (Knitwear & Fabric), Salek Textiles, S. B Knite Composite (Sankura Dyeing and Garments) and the Northern Group
Recyclers: Birla Cellulose, BlockTexx, Cyclo, Infinited Fiber Company, Malek Spinning Mills, Marchi & Fildi Spa, Lenzing AG, Recovertex, Renewcell, Saraz Fibre Tech, Usha Yarns Limited and Worn Again Technologies

About Global Fashion Agenda
Global Fashion Agenda is the leading forum for industry collaboration and public-private cooperation on fashion sustainability. Our mission is to make sustainability fashion’s first priority, and to mobilise and guide the fashion industry to take bold and urgent action on sustainability.
In partnership with our Strategic Partners, ASOS, BESTSELLER, H&M Group, Kering, Li & Fung, Nike, PVH Corp., Sustainable Apparel Coalition, and Target, our Strategic Knowledge Partner, McKinsey & Company, and our Strategic Communication Partner, Karla Otto, we spearhead the fashion industry’s journey towards a more sustainable future. A non-profit organisation, Global Fashion Agenda is behind yearly guidelines, reports, the leading business event on sustainability in fashion, Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the digital event CFS+ and the Innovation Forum – a curated platform that showcases solution providers.
For more information, please visit www.globalfashionagenda.com

 

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